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Mechanic inspecting a used vehicle on a shop lift, performing a pre-purchase inspection before a buyer signs the title

Buying & Maintenance

Pre-purchase inspection: what we check on a used car (and what to ask)

6 min read

A pre-purchase inspection costs $150 and takes about an hour. The most expensive used car you can buy is the one you did not have inspected first. Here is what we check, why we check it, and what you should walk away from.

Why a $150 PPI saves thousands

Once you sign the title, every problem is yours. A pre-purchase inspection is the cheapest insurance available against buying someone else's deferred maintenance, hidden accident damage, or impending major repair. The customer who skipped the PPI on a 2015 luxury SUV last year and called us the following week with a $4,200 transmission quote is the customer who taught us to write this article.

The 30-point inspection we run

Engine and drivetrain

  • Cold start observation (smoke, knock, rough idle)
  • Visual inspection of hoses, belts, gaskets
  • Oil condition and level (sludge, water contamination)
  • Coolant condition (oil contamination indicates head gasket issues)
  • Transmission fluid color and smell (dark or burnt = trouble)
  • Compression test on suspect engines
  • Live data scan of all modules

Brakes and suspension

  • Pad thickness, rotor wear, fluid condition
  • Caliper, hose, line inspection
  • Strut, shock, bushing condition
  • Steering rack play, tie rod ends, ball joints
  • Wheel bearing noise on a road test

Body, frame, and structural

  • Frame and unibody inspection for collision repair signs
  • Paint thickness gauge readings on body panels
  • Door, hood, trunk gap consistency (mismatched panels = repaired collision)
  • Underbody rust, especially on older trucks
  • Flood-vehicle check (waterlines on interior, sand in unusual places)

Tires, electrical, and HVAC

  • Tire tread depth, age (DOT date), wear pattern
  • Battery age and charging system test
  • Every interior and exterior light
  • AC performance test (cold air on max, both vent positions)
  • Heater function

Documentation review

  • Carfax / AutoCheck history
  • Service records, if available
  • VIN match across plate, engine bay, dashboard
  • Odometer plausibility (cluster discrepancy is a major red flag)
  • Title check for prior salvage or rebuilt status

Red flags that mean walk away

  • Cluster discrepancy (odometer reading does not match wear and service records)
  • Frame straightening evidence (poorly aligned welds, paint mismatch under hood)
  • Flood damage (corrosion under carpets, sand in obscure places, bad smell)
  • Multiple major fluids contaminated (oil in coolant, coolant in oil)
  • Major modules throwing codes the seller refuses to address

DFW-specific things we look for

  • Hail damage repair (Texas hail seasons are severe)
  • Flood vehicles after Houston-area storms (flood cars often migrate up I-45)
  • Heat-cooked rubber and plastics (hoses brittle past their interval)
  • AC system that has been topped off repeatedly (refrigerant residue on connections)

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